https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/currants-and-gooseberries-in-the-home-garden/
Pink Champagne currant
Currants and gooseberries, although closely related, can easily be distinguished by examining the canes and fruit. Currant canes lack the spines and bear 8 to 30 pea-sized berries in clusters. A mature currant or gooseberry shrub can produce up to four quarts of fruit annually. Most commercially available cultivars have adequate winter hardiness for the majority of the Upper Midwest, many to USDA hardiness zone 3a.
Alain Charest
Black currant
Red, pink, and white currantRed, pink, and white currants are the same species, Ribes sativum. Pink and white currants are albino selections of red currant. The fruit of pink and white currants is generally less acidic and is considered by some to be better for fresh eating. Red, pink and white currants are self-fertile, meaning one plant will set fruit without any other currant cultivars nearby.
Black currantGooseberries
The European black currant is Ribes nigrum. Black currants have a strong and unusual flavor. They are widely grown in Northern Europe for their high vitamin C content. Some cultivars are self-fertile. Those that are not would require a second cultivar to ensure good fruit set. Black currants are ripe when the fruit has a deep, purple-black color.
Pink Champagne currant
Currants and gooseberries, although closely related, can easily be distinguished by examining the canes and fruit. Currant canes lack the spines and bear 8 to 30 pea-sized berries in clusters. A mature currant or gooseberry shrub can produce up to four quarts of fruit annually. Most commercially available cultivars have adequate winter hardiness for the majority of the Upper Midwest, many to USDA hardiness zone 3a.
Alain Charest
Black currant
Red, pink, and white currantRed, pink, and white currants are the same species, Ribes sativum. Pink and white currants are albino selections of red currant. The fruit of pink and white currants is generally less acidic and is considered by some to be better for fresh eating. Red, pink and white currants are self-fertile, meaning one plant will set fruit without any other currant cultivars nearby.
Black currantGooseberries
The European black currant is Ribes nigrum. Black currants have a strong and unusual flavor. They are widely grown in Northern Europe for their high vitamin C content. Some cultivars are self-fertile. Those that are not would require a second cultivar to ensure good fruit set. Black currants are ripe when the fruit has a deep, purple-black color.
Getting startedPreparationCurrants and gooseberries will tolerate less-than-perfect conditions. They will grow well in full sun to partial shade. As with any fruiting plant, partial shade might mean less vigor and smaller/fewer fruit. While they will tolerate marginal soil, currants and gooseberries perform best in rich, well-drained soil. If possible, prepare your planting location the autumn before you intend to plant. Test your soil for pH and nutrient needs, and add organic material such as peat or compost according to soil test recommendations. Rid the planting site of all perennial weeds as they are much more difficult to control after planting.
PlantingPlants ordered from online/mail-order sources are usually sent bare-root, while plants from a local nursery will likely be potted. Because you want your new shrubs to become established before the onset of hot weather, plant bare-root or potted plants in spring as soon as the soil can be worked; don't be afraid to plant early in the season, as even a plant that is beginning to leaf out can tolerate temperatures as cold as 19°F.
When handling bare-root plants, make certain to keep the plants cool and moist until they go into the ground; the roots must not be allowed to dry nor become waterlogged. Just before planting, soak the roots of bare-root plants in a bucket of water for three to four hours.
Plant currants and gooseberries at least an inch deeper than they were planted in the nursery, in holes deeper and wider than their root systems. If lower canes are covered with soil to a depth of two to three buds, this will encourage a larger root system and the development of numerous renewal canes, a strategy that will maximize the useful lifespan of the plant. Plants may be spaced as close as three feet apart. Black currants are more vigorous and should be spaced four to five feet apart. Generally, currants are self-fertile, but research suggests that planting more than one cultivar results in better yields.
Initial pruningAfter planting, prune all canes back to four to six above-ground buds; the resulting low bud count encourages the development of vigorous new canes.
MulchAt planting time, provide two to four inches of an organic mulch such as wood chips, pine needles, or compost. Mulching cools the soil, conserves water, and suppresses weeds. These benefits are preferable in a partially shaded site and essential in a sunny spot. Beginning the year after planting, renew mulch annually. If you use a low-nitrogen mulch such as wood chips or sawdust, you may need to apply extra nitrogen fertilizer. Signs of nitrogen deficiency include yellowing leaves (older leaves yellow first) and poor growth.
Through the seasonsWeedsAfter planting, remove weeds regularly within the canopy of the plant. Grasses are especially competitive. Maintain a 3 to 4 inch layer of mulch to prevent weed growth.
Insects and other creaturesInsect pests are a minor concern for home growers of currants and gooseberries. Infestations are uncommon and rarely cause major damage. Damage can be avoided by maintaining a healthy, vigorous plant: this means selecting a site with good soil and ample light, providing adequate water, regular pruning, and removal of affected or dead plant parts and plant debris. Insect pests that may be encountered include aphids, cane borers, spider mites, fruit worms and fruit flies. These pests are generally controlled by other insects in the garden.
Diseases and challengesCurrants are easy to manage in the Upper Midwest, and don't require extensive measures to control diseases. Careful site selection and good cultural practices such as mulching, pruning, and sanitation will minimize pest problems.
Powdery mildewPowdery mildew can be a problem in some years and some locations. Prevention is the best measure for controlling powdery mildew. The first step of prevention is to plant mildew-resistant cultivars. Site plants where they will receive good air circulation and plenty of sunlight, as this will inhibit spore germination. Regular pruning improves air circulation. Remove any dead plant debris from the vicinity of currant shrubs, as this material can harbor fungal spores. Remove affected plant parts at the first sign of powdery mildew to prevent spread to the rest of the plant. Dispose of plant debris in a hot compost pile or in the trash.
White pine blister rustMike Schomaker, Colorado State Forest Service
White pine blister rust on currant leaf.
Currants, gooseberries, and other plants in the Ribes genus play a part in white pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola). Blister rust is little more than a nuisance to the grower of currants, but can be devastating to white pine trees. Newer currant and gooseberry cultivars have been bred with rust resistance, so the planting of these fruits is no longer a great concern in the Upper Midwest region. However, planting remains restricted in some areas of the U.S. When purchasing plants, choose cultivars with known resistance to white pine blister rust.
FertilizingA composted material rich in nitrogen, such as well-rotted manure makes an excellent fertilizer for currants and gooseberries. Because composted materials release their nutrients more slowly than synthetic fertilizers, apply a few shovels-full per plant in late fall.
PruningThis gooseberry bush needs pruning to open up the canopy, eliminate dead wood, and to prevent long canes from bending over and tip-rooting.
Prune established currant and gooseberry shrubs annually in late winter (early March), before new growth appears, to encourage vigor and fruit production. Proper pruning will improve sun penetration into the plant, and maintain good air circulation to minimize disease. During the first three years of growth, allow four or five canes to develop per year, removing only weak or damaged wood. Beginning in the fourth year, prune out the oldest wood annually. In addition, remove any weak new growth. A mature shrub should have 9 to 12 canes once pruning is completed. Fruit is produced on one, two, and three year-old wood, so ideally keep 3 to 4 canes of each age.
Always remove unwanted canes as close to the ground as possible. When pruning gooseberries, look for canes that are arching over with tips near the ground, or lying on the ground and prune these canes. Gooseberry canes can root from the tips if allowed to touch the ground.
Calendar of tasks for currants and gooseberries.
Things to do When to do them
Plant new currant and gooseberry bushes April, May
During bloom, look for insect and disease symptoms May, June
Watch for powdery mildew; treat or prune as needed. June through September
HarvestJuly, August
Remove fallen leaves, other plant debris before snowfall October, November
Apply composted manure before snowfall October, November
Prune weak, dead wood; thin to open canopy before growth starts MarchHarvest and storage
Juicy currants are delicious to eat right off the stem.
There is no simpler way to tell when currants and gooseberries are ripe than to monitor the color and flavor of the fruits as they develop. When using the fruit for jam, you should harvest it before it is fully ripe so that natural fruit pectin levels will be higher. Cool picked fruit quickly, placing it in covered containers or closed bags to maintain humidity levels and prevent drying when storing fruit in the refrigerator. Promptly cooled berries will keep in the refrigerator for up to several weeks.
These little gems are delicious fresh, right off the plant. Currants and gooseberries also make excellent preserves and juice. Berries of all colors can be used to make wine. For a nice treat in summer, freeze clusters of berries and add them to glasses of iced tea, lemonade, or your favorite cocktail.
PlantingPlants ordered from online/mail-order sources are usually sent bare-root, while plants from a local nursery will likely be potted. Because you want your new shrubs to become established before the onset of hot weather, plant bare-root or potted plants in spring as soon as the soil can be worked; don't be afraid to plant early in the season, as even a plant that is beginning to leaf out can tolerate temperatures as cold as 19°F.
When handling bare-root plants, make certain to keep the plants cool and moist until they go into the ground; the roots must not be allowed to dry nor become waterlogged. Just before planting, soak the roots of bare-root plants in a bucket of water for three to four hours.
Plant currants and gooseberries at least an inch deeper than they were planted in the nursery, in holes deeper and wider than their root systems. If lower canes are covered with soil to a depth of two to three buds, this will encourage a larger root system and the development of numerous renewal canes, a strategy that will maximize the useful lifespan of the plant. Plants may be spaced as close as three feet apart. Black currants are more vigorous and should be spaced four to five feet apart. Generally, currants are self-fertile, but research suggests that planting more than one cultivar results in better yields.
Initial pruningAfter planting, prune all canes back to four to six above-ground buds; the resulting low bud count encourages the development of vigorous new canes.
MulchAt planting time, provide two to four inches of an organic mulch such as wood chips, pine needles, or compost. Mulching cools the soil, conserves water, and suppresses weeds. These benefits are preferable in a partially shaded site and essential in a sunny spot. Beginning the year after planting, renew mulch annually. If you use a low-nitrogen mulch such as wood chips or sawdust, you may need to apply extra nitrogen fertilizer. Signs of nitrogen deficiency include yellowing leaves (older leaves yellow first) and poor growth.
Through the seasonsWeedsAfter planting, remove weeds regularly within the canopy of the plant. Grasses are especially competitive. Maintain a 3 to 4 inch layer of mulch to prevent weed growth.
Insects and other creaturesInsect pests are a minor concern for home growers of currants and gooseberries. Infestations are uncommon and rarely cause major damage. Damage can be avoided by maintaining a healthy, vigorous plant: this means selecting a site with good soil and ample light, providing adequate water, regular pruning, and removal of affected or dead plant parts and plant debris. Insect pests that may be encountered include aphids, cane borers, spider mites, fruit worms and fruit flies. These pests are generally controlled by other insects in the garden.
Diseases and challengesCurrants are easy to manage in the Upper Midwest, and don't require extensive measures to control diseases. Careful site selection and good cultural practices such as mulching, pruning, and sanitation will minimize pest problems.
Powdery mildewPowdery mildew can be a problem in some years and some locations. Prevention is the best measure for controlling powdery mildew. The first step of prevention is to plant mildew-resistant cultivars. Site plants where they will receive good air circulation and plenty of sunlight, as this will inhibit spore germination. Regular pruning improves air circulation. Remove any dead plant debris from the vicinity of currant shrubs, as this material can harbor fungal spores. Remove affected plant parts at the first sign of powdery mildew to prevent spread to the rest of the plant. Dispose of plant debris in a hot compost pile or in the trash.
White pine blister rustMike Schomaker, Colorado State Forest Service
White pine blister rust on currant leaf.
Currants, gooseberries, and other plants in the Ribes genus play a part in white pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola). Blister rust is little more than a nuisance to the grower of currants, but can be devastating to white pine trees. Newer currant and gooseberry cultivars have been bred with rust resistance, so the planting of these fruits is no longer a great concern in the Upper Midwest region. However, planting remains restricted in some areas of the U.S. When purchasing plants, choose cultivars with known resistance to white pine blister rust.
FertilizingA composted material rich in nitrogen, such as well-rotted manure makes an excellent fertilizer for currants and gooseberries. Because composted materials release their nutrients more slowly than synthetic fertilizers, apply a few shovels-full per plant in late fall.
PruningThis gooseberry bush needs pruning to open up the canopy, eliminate dead wood, and to prevent long canes from bending over and tip-rooting.
Prune established currant and gooseberry shrubs annually in late winter (early March), before new growth appears, to encourage vigor and fruit production. Proper pruning will improve sun penetration into the plant, and maintain good air circulation to minimize disease. During the first three years of growth, allow four or five canes to develop per year, removing only weak or damaged wood. Beginning in the fourth year, prune out the oldest wood annually. In addition, remove any weak new growth. A mature shrub should have 9 to 12 canes once pruning is completed. Fruit is produced on one, two, and three year-old wood, so ideally keep 3 to 4 canes of each age.
Always remove unwanted canes as close to the ground as possible. When pruning gooseberries, look for canes that are arching over with tips near the ground, or lying on the ground and prune these canes. Gooseberry canes can root from the tips if allowed to touch the ground.
Calendar of tasks for currants and gooseberries.
Things to do When to do them
Plant new currant and gooseberry bushes April, May
During bloom, look for insect and disease symptoms May, June
Watch for powdery mildew; treat or prune as needed. June through September
HarvestJuly, August
Remove fallen leaves, other plant debris before snowfall October, November
Apply composted manure before snowfall October, November
Prune weak, dead wood; thin to open canopy before growth starts MarchHarvest and storage
Juicy currants are delicious to eat right off the stem.
There is no simpler way to tell when currants and gooseberries are ripe than to monitor the color and flavor of the fruits as they develop. When using the fruit for jam, you should harvest it before it is fully ripe so that natural fruit pectin levels will be higher. Cool picked fruit quickly, placing it in covered containers or closed bags to maintain humidity levels and prevent drying when storing fruit in the refrigerator. Promptly cooled berries will keep in the refrigerator for up to several weeks.
These little gems are delicious fresh, right off the plant. Currants and gooseberries also make excellent preserves and juice. Berries of all colors can be used to make wine. For a nice treat in summer, freeze clusters of berries and add them to glasses of iced tea, lemonade, or your favorite cocktail.
How to Grow and Use Currants by Amy 16 Comments
Currant bushes are a great addition to the edible landscape or permaculture garden. Here’s how to grow currants and use them in the kitchen.Posts may contain affiliate links, which allow me to earn a commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep costs down so that I can continue providing high quality content to you for free. I appreciate your purchase through the links! (full disclosure)
Currant (Ribes) is a thornless understory shrub that grows in hardiness zones 3-8. Currant bushes can grow up to 3-6 feet wide and tall, and can range from red, white, or pink, to black. There is even a clove currant (Ribes odoratum), which is very fragrant. All currants have attractive flowers and maplelike leaves that make them desirable in the edible landscape and are important understory plantings in the permaculture food forest or hedgerow. They are one of many perennial crops that can tolerate moist areas.
Currants: Edible Landscape for Shady Areas
There aren’t a lot of options for growing edible plants in the shade, so when I learned that currants can be full and productive in the shade, it was love at first sight. We replaced the traditional yew bushes lining our front porch with a row of currant bushes. Being on the north side of the house, they are almost completely shaded.
I can’t believe how little they were at the time of planting:
Currant (Ribes) is a thornless understory shrub that grows in hardiness zones 3-8. Currant bushes can grow up to 3-6 feet wide and tall, and can range from red, white, or pink, to black. There is even a clove currant (Ribes odoratum), which is very fragrant. All currants have attractive flowers and maplelike leaves that make them desirable in the edible landscape and are important understory plantings in the permaculture food forest or hedgerow. They are one of many perennial crops that can tolerate moist areas.
Currants: Edible Landscape for Shady Areas
There aren’t a lot of options for growing edible plants in the shade, so when I learned that currants can be full and productive in the shade, it was love at first sight. We replaced the traditional yew bushes lining our front porch with a row of currant bushes. Being on the north side of the house, they are almost completely shaded.
I can’t believe how little they were at the time of planting:
a young currant hedge
How to Use Currant Bushes in the Landscape
- As the main ornamental hedge such as ours bordering our front porch. The spring flowers are decorative in the spring, and the berries dangle like a bunch of grapes in early summer.
- In a shady, unused spot. Try planting them under oak, walnut, or apple trees, according to Gaia’s Garden
- In a wildlife hedge. Birds love currants. They are said to be deer-resistant, but I’m not so sure about that.
- In a poultry foraging area. Chickens like currants, too.
- At the edges of open woods and in dappled shade in the woods, as in a food forest
- In a pollination garden. The tiny flowers provide nectar for both hummingbirds and a menagerie of other insects.
- In your medicinal garden. Black currant leaves are known for curing quite a large array of symptoms and illnesses, from arthritis to colds and coughs. All currants are high in vitamin C and can be dried and eaten as a supplement during the winter months.
- In a jelly garden. While I think currants are a bit tart when eaten fresh, they transform into a sweet and mellow taste when made into jelly.
Aesthetics in the Edible LandscapeBlack currants are more vigorous than red currants. They are more full and upright with straighter branches, and grow to 5-6 feet tall and wide. The leaves are bigger and the branches provide more interest in the winter because the red buds are bigger.
The red currant bushes are smaller (3-5 feet tall and wide) and a little more scraggly-looking. But that’s kind of a neat look, too, with the gnarled branches. I guess it depends on what you’re looking for.
Both need pruned in the late winter for good berry production, and they can be shaped into a tidy hedge shape if that’s your thing.
The red currant bushes are smaller (3-5 feet tall and wide) and a little more scraggly-looking. But that’s kind of a neat look, too, with the gnarled branches. I guess it depends on what you’re looking for.
Both need pruned in the late winter for good berry production, and they can be shaped into a tidy hedge shape if that’s your thing.
Yield, Harvest, and PruningYield: Annually, each of my red currant bushes produce about 2 pounds of berries, while my black currant bushes each produce about 4 pounds of berries. Keep in mind that my bushes are shade-grown, so bushes in full sun may produce more berries.
Harvest Season: Currants are harvested in the early summer. My shade-grown red currant bushes in hardiness zone 6a are ready to harvest first in late May to early June while the black currants come into harvest about 2-3 weeks later. They’re both harvestable for about a month.
How to Harvest: When the entire bunch of berries is ripe (like a bunch of grapes), harvest the whole bunch. Once harvested, pick each berry off the stem before eating or processing.
Pests and Diseases: Currants are susceptible to aphids and white pine rust, and shouldn’t be planted near white pines because they can pass on the disease. Currants are prohibited in some states because of their ability to carry the white pine disease. The nursery will be able to tell you if they’re prohibited altogether where you live, or if only certain varieties are prohibited. We haven’t experienced any pests or disease in our currant hedge.
Pruning: Prune in late winter when the bushes are dormant. Cut back any stems that are touching the ground or that appear to be diseased or broken. Red currants produce most heavily on 2- to 3-year old stems, while black currants bear more heavily on 1-year-old stems. Older, less-productive stems should be removed as the plants get older. Too many stems will cause overcrowding and reduce productivity, so each year keep 10-12 of the most vigorous, younger stems (1-, 2-, and 3-year old stems) and prune the rest back.
Would you like to learn more about growing fruit in the permaculture landscape?
You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.
Growing Resources:
I’ve found loads of ways that I enjoy eating them. I start by freezing all berries immediately after
Harvest Season: Currants are harvested in the early summer. My shade-grown red currant bushes in hardiness zone 6a are ready to harvest first in late May to early June while the black currants come into harvest about 2-3 weeks later. They’re both harvestable for about a month.
How to Harvest: When the entire bunch of berries is ripe (like a bunch of grapes), harvest the whole bunch. Once harvested, pick each berry off the stem before eating or processing.
Pests and Diseases: Currants are susceptible to aphids and white pine rust, and shouldn’t be planted near white pines because they can pass on the disease. Currants are prohibited in some states because of their ability to carry the white pine disease. The nursery will be able to tell you if they’re prohibited altogether where you live, or if only certain varieties are prohibited. We haven’t experienced any pests or disease in our currant hedge.
Pruning: Prune in late winter when the bushes are dormant. Cut back any stems that are touching the ground or that appear to be diseased or broken. Red currants produce most heavily on 2- to 3-year old stems, while black currants bear more heavily on 1-year-old stems. Older, less-productive stems should be removed as the plants get older. Too many stems will cause overcrowding and reduce productivity, so each year keep 10-12 of the most vigorous, younger stems (1-, 2-, and 3-year old stems) and prune the rest back.
Would you like to learn more about growing fruit in the permaculture landscape?
You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.
Growing Resources:
- Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide, The Ohio State University
- Landscaping with Fruit, Lee Reich
- Edible Landscaping, Rosalind Creasy
- Edible Forest Garden, Vol. 2, Dave Jacke and Eric Toensmeier
- The Suburban Micro-Farm: Modern Solutions for Busy People by Amy Stross (shameless plug!)
I’ve found loads of ways that I enjoy eating them. I start by freezing all berries immediately after
1. Smoothies
The frozen berries are delicious in my morning smoothies with coconut milk and a splash of vanilla. I mix equal parts of red currants, black currants, and strawberries together. The strawberries cut the tartness of the currants, but I get to take full advantage of their high vitamin C content.
The frozen berries are delicious in my morning smoothies with coconut milk and a splash of vanilla. I mix equal parts of red currants, black currants, and strawberries together. The strawberries cut the tartness of the currants, but I get to take full advantage of their high vitamin C content.
2. Jelly
The most expensive preserves in the world are called Bar-le-Duc red currant preserves. This delicacy hails from a small village in Northeastern France where it’s been made since at least the 1500s. The trade is passed down from women to daughters, where they use goose quills to painstakingly extract the seed from each berry without causing damage.
I tried to make a version of this, but the recipe for regular people like me includes the seeds, which I didn’t like. Tasted great, too many seeds.
So now I make a jelly rather than preserves because it’s seedless. My mixed berries jelly, which often includes red currants, black currants, and black raspberries, is divine. Pomona’s pectin is a great way to turn your own homegrown combination of berries into a unique jelly. It would’ve even been good without the black raspberries because currants have a lovely mellow taste when cooked.
The most expensive preserves in the world are called Bar-le-Duc red currant preserves. This delicacy hails from a small village in Northeastern France where it’s been made since at least the 1500s. The trade is passed down from women to daughters, where they use goose quills to painstakingly extract the seed from each berry without causing damage.
I tried to make a version of this, but the recipe for regular people like me includes the seeds, which I didn’t like. Tasted great, too many seeds.
So now I make a jelly rather than preserves because it’s seedless. My mixed berries jelly, which often includes red currants, black currants, and black raspberries, is divine. Pomona’s pectin is a great way to turn your own homegrown combination of berries into a unique jelly. It would’ve even been good without the black raspberries because currants have a lovely mellow taste when cooked.
3. Currant Vinegar
I like to make a berry-infused vinegar with the leftover pulp from making jelly. The pulp includes berry seeds and skin, which still have plenty of flavor. Use regular berries mashed with a potato masher if you don’t have pulp from jelly.
Here’s how to make currant vinegar and how to use it.
I like to make a berry-infused vinegar with the leftover pulp from making jelly. The pulp includes berry seeds and skin, which still have plenty of flavor. Use regular berries mashed with a potato masher if you don’t have pulp from jelly.
Here’s how to make currant vinegar and how to use it.
4. Currant Liqueur
Infusing berries in vodka is really easy! I infused black currants to make a famous French liqueur called creme de cassis. Currants are more popular in Europe, thus, they have more traditional uses for the berries. Here’s how I made the black currant liqueur and how I use it.
Whether you choose red or black currants for your landscape or culinary adventures, you can’t go wrong. They’re both beautiful and tasty!
Infusing berries in vodka is really easy! I infused black currants to make a famous French liqueur called creme de cassis. Currants are more popular in Europe, thus, they have more traditional uses for the berries. Here’s how I made the black currant liqueur and how I use it.
Whether you choose red or black currants for your landscape or culinary adventures, you can’t go wrong. They’re both beautiful and tasty!